Kompong Cham

I got up at 6am to change some baht into riel (moneychangers in Kratie also often sell phones or jewelry, you know they change money because they display different currencies in glass containers on the counter) and grab my last sticks of krolan for the bus today, which I got on at 7am.
The bus was supposed to take 4 hours to the little city of Kompong Cham (where the current Prime Minister was born) so of course it took 6 (to determine length of public transport in southeast Asia, this is the formula : ((time you were told) x 1.5)= actual time). It’s just the way it is, and I plan on it. No reason to stress, the scenery is pretty, and though the Cambodian buses are usually far from comfortable, I am beyond thankful if at least the aircon is working or the windows open.
A moto taxi offered to take me to my hotel for 1000 riel (25 cents). His English was excellent and seemed like a legit guy so I asked for his recommendation for a guesthouse under $5. He took me to a place next to the river, and waited while I checked it out. 3rd floor, fan cooled, PRIVATE bathroom (!), and even better – my own balcony!! Definitely. My moto translated for the guesthouse manager, who spoke no English, and I paid them each their due, was given an extra set of padlocks, and went upstairs to nap off the heat of the day.

Kompong Kampang Cham Balcony Budget Cheap Guest House Mekong
View from my balcony
My guesthouse

I wandered around the riverside for a bit, staking out ideas for a morning bike ride tomorrow before I take a bus to Phnom Penh. There’s an awesome bamboo bridge to an island in the Mekong, rebuilt after every monsoon season. Definitely thinking that’s my destination tomorrow morning before I hop the bus (or will I go wild and splurge that extra dollar or so for the much faster minivan? Living fast and furious here)

While an awesome budget find, my place lacks wifi. Or, I lack the language ability to ascertain whether there’s wifi. There’s a nice little coffee place a few doors down across the street – Destiny. It supports an NGO, and had fast/free wifi, friendly service, and great shakes and food (at reasonable prices).

Kompong Cham is definitely not on the tourist short list. Aside from the manager at Destiny, and one European couple at a restaurant I passed by, I haven’t seen any other Falang. Which is awesome! But also slightly lonely – I would love to meet some Khmers, but aside from staring at me, no one is very interested (language barrier is a much bigger issue in non-touristy areas). Except for the teenage boys, who shove each other until one of them shouts an embarrassed ‘hello!’ and then covers his face in his hands while his buddies giggle and cheer. And the toddlers, who all smile big and wave nonstop while yelling ‘halloooooo halloooooo!’ Sometimes women my own age will try to talk to me, the usual questions – where are you going, where are you from, why are you in Cambodia, are you alone?- but then eventually the words run out and they turn to their girlfriends and laugh, and I’m not sure whether it’s at me, for being a sweaty and unusual looking foreigner so out of place.
I’m still getting used to the nonstop attention and blatant, curious stares. It is totally harmless and innocent, but somewhat disconcerting and isolating.. To know you are the center of so much attention and discussion that you can’t understand.
I bought a bus ticket for $4.75, and rented a bike (with basket and lock) for $1 from Mekong Daze bar/restaurant, then grabbed some dinner at Mekong Crossing, had an awesome, big western style salad with perfect Italian vinaigrette for $2.. Oh goodness I’ve missed those salads (seems like salads in southeast Asia are always small, light on veggies and heavy on thousand island or mayo based dressing)! My waiter was super nice, had perfect English, and after chatting came to find out he’s a final candidate for one of 6 scholarships for Cambodians to go to West Point (VERY VERY prestigious academy in the US). Rock on and best of luck!

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Mekong Discovery Trail Day 2

Great breakfast waiting for us.. Best yet
The 7am ferry

This morning we woke up at 6am, had another awesome meal, and headed out to the ferry. Good god my butt was sore. When we got to the port town on the other side, Kat got picked up in a car (she was too sore and not feeling well enough to justify the ride back), and Sam and I continued back. We made awesome time, being cheered on with the ‘hallo!!’s of countless children , stopping a few times for a water or crushed ice drink, returning our bikes to CRDT and arriving back to Balcony before noon.

The road on the mainland
View from my bike of the Mekong

Not gonna lie, it was the most physically challenging thing I’ve done in Southeast Asia. The heat, lack of sleep (due to it being so hot), dehydration and not being used to riding a bike all compounded to make a pretty difficult second day (and end of the first day). That being said, this was one of the best experiences I’ve had so far.

Sunset view from Balcony

Koh Trong Day Trip

Kratie,
I woke up around 6am and couldn’t fall back asleep.. I’m used to aircon, so this fan room has been tough, but I KNOW I need to start staying in fan rooms – it gets you acclimated to the weather better (no crazy change from hot to cold to hot), is way cheaper, and fans don’t make you sick like the aircon does here. Whenever I sleep in aircon, I wake up with a scratchy throat, faded voice, and feel a little off.

Anyway. I took a walk to the market, changed my money from Thai baht to riel, exchange rate of 130 to 1. Not great but not bad.

I headed back to the guest house, had some fruit and bread for breakfast, and then Sam (American), Katrina (Canadian) and myself took off for Koh Trong, an island off of Kratie.

The pier is right on the main road that runs parellel to the Mekong (its a small town, anyone can point you in the right direction, and regardless of where you’re staying it won’t be more than a 10 minute walk), and the ferry was 1000riel. We got to Koh Trong, rented bikes for $2 (USD) and began our day. After an hour or so on the bikes, we stopped at a homestay for lunch (Contact the CRDT to set up the day before)- rice, veggies, meat for the other two, and a dessert of mangoes. Really good, and $4 each, going directly to the homestay family.

We cruised around the island a bit more, saw a floating village, were chased by smiling half naked toddlers screaming ‘hellooooo!’ and then returned back to Kratie on the ferry, where we went to the community development office to book our biking trek and homestay for the next two days (only $24 USD for bike, accommodation, 2 meals, a guide on the island, a boat trip to swim and see dolphins!)
After some napping and relaxation, we headed to the rooftop at Silver Dolphin to have some wine and dinner before calling it an early night.

Sunset on The Mekong